sewing 101, Techniques, tutorial

Sewing 101: Supplies

I’m guest posting over at Pickup Some Creativity with my supplies list too, so be sure to check out all of Chris’ ideas and guest posts with lots of great sewing advice and tricks!  She’s hosting Sewing 101 all month, yay!

I’m hoping this will be a great resource for those of you new to sewing (and maybe some of you that aren’t so new).  Here are a few of the supplies I keep on hand at all times (hopefully).  I used to find myself going to the craft store/fabric store all the time to buy basic stuff, but now that I know what things I typically make, I keep those ready to use in my sewing area.  Just a few other notes, I always try and find a coupon to Hobby Lobby, Hancock fabrics (or Joanns), and Michaels when I know I need something.  It’s also a good idea to be sure to stock up on thread and maybe even some buttons you like when they go on sale at 50% off.

Here’s what a find myself using over and over again:

  1.  Extra rotary cutter blades.  I purchase mine at Michaels with a 40% off coupon.
  2. 45mm Rotary Cutter.  I didn’t picture the self healing mat, but you must have one to use with the rotary cutter, they come in lots of different sizes, but use a coupon!
  3. Smaller scissors for detail work.
  4. General scissors.  I do have a pair of dressmaking shears (scored big time as a gift), but I use the ones pictures here for everything, even cutting paper
  5. Seam ripper.  Enough said.
  6. Needles.  I’ve been known to go through 4 needles on a single step of a project before, so be sure to have a package handy.  I use 11 most often, but 14 and 16 are nice for making bags, etc.  Also pick up a few ballpoint needles for using when sewing with knits.
  7. Zipper foot!  My friend.  Also for making piping.
  8. Darning foot.  For free motion quilting.  I’ve used these on napkins, etc.  You can do really cool stuff with this foot, just think of it as sketching with thread.
  9. Walking foot.  Definitely buy one of these if you plan on making any quilts.  It allows the fabric to feed through evenly, even when there are many layers.  I use mine on bags, etc. as well.
  10. Chop stick, for poking out corners.
  11. Water soluble pen.
  12. Small flat head screwdriver for tightening the feet on my machine.
  13. Fray check.
  14. Elastic thread.
  15. Pins, definitely buy the nicest ones you can afford, it makes it so much easier to push through fabrics.
  16. Bobbins.  Keep a few extras on hand.  I rotate with about 8 bobbins, a must when you make a lot of different project.
  17. Clear grid ruler.  It would also be a good idea to get one of those handy suction cup handles to make sure your fingers stay out of the way of your rotary cutter.
  1. Glue gun.
  2. Elastic.  Sizes ranging from 1/4″ to 1″ in width.
  3. Spray starch.
  4. Velcro.  I have 3/4″ and it seems to work well for a lot of different projects.
  5. Safety pin.  For pushing elastic through a waistband casing.
  6. Needle for hand sewing.
  7. Twill tape.  I think it can add a lot of detail to a project as well as being useful for a 1001 other things.
  8. Spray adhesive.  I used mine for my mail organizer, but I’ve also heard of people using it with making cards with fabric scraps.
  1. Cotton webbing.  Fun for tote bags and more, lots of fun colors to choose from.
  2. Grommets.  I like the special touch it adds to projects.  I have 7/16″ and 3/8″
  3. Thread, lots of it, especially white, cream, brown.  I like to use 100% cotton thread for quilting.
  4. Magnetic snaps.  For purses, clutches, etc.  I buy mine from BeingBags on etsy.
  5. Zippers, my favorite notion.  I only keep 14″ and 8″ zippers on hand.  If I need another length or an invisible zipper I make sure to buy it on my next trip to the store.  I buy mine at Zipit on etsy.
  6. Snaps/snap setter.  I use this brand, I really like the variety they have.  Size 16 covers most projects I’ve made.
  7. Buttons.
  1. Medium weight fusible interfacing.  I also have a bit of lightweight interfacing.  And it is handy to have some Peltex around (double sided fusible heavyweight interfacing).
  2. Iron on adhesive, great for applique.  I have Heat n Bond, but I think Wonder Under is the same stuff?
  3. Fusible fleece.  Great for bags, zippered pouches, give a nice padded effect and gives body.
  4. Cotton quilt batting.
  5. Polyester fill.  For making softies, your own pillow forms, etc.
  6. Muslin.  I use a lot for lining pillows and this is another one for 1001 other uses.
  7. Plain cotton canvas, great to use as a sew in interfacing for bags., etc.
I’m sure there are some goodies I forgot, so please feel free to leave any of your favorite essentials in the comments section!  I also want to note that these are the items I regularly use.  I did not receive any monetary compensation (or otherwise) for my opinion on any of these products.
Bags, Wallets, and Zips, tutorial

gathered clutch tutorial

 Looking for a downloadable option with extra add-ons and options? Find the full pattern here.
A huge thanks to Dana and Disney for doing such a great job of rounding up all sorts of wonderful mother’s day projects!

Materials needed:

  • 1/4 yard each of three coordinating fabrics (you’ll definitely have scraps leftover)
  • 7″ zipper (you can always purchase a longer zipper and shorten it, just follow the directions on the package
  • scraps of medium weight fusible interfacing

Cutting the pieces:
Main Exterior: cut (1) 5.5″ tall x 9″ wide, and (1) 5.5″ tall x 13″ wide (this will be the gathered front)
Front Band: cut (1) piece 4″ tall x 9″ wide.
Lining: cut (2) pieces 5.5″ tall x 9″ wide
Zipper End Covers: cut (2) 1.5″ tall x 2.5″ wide
Medium weight fusible interfacing for exterior pieces of clutch: cut (2) 5.5″ tall x 9″ wide

Optional:
Divider Pocket: cut (1) piece 8″ tall x 9″ wide (apply interfacing to half, you’ll need at 4″ x 9″ piece)
Card Holders: cut (1) piece 7″ tall x 9″ wide (apply interfacing to half, you’ll need at 3.5″ x 9″ piece)

The most time consuming part for me is always picking out my fabrics and cutting them, the rest goes together pretty easy, so let’s go!

Take the front band piece and fold it in half the long way (right sides together) and sew together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn tube right side out and press with seam in the middle.  Set aside.

Grab the 13″ wide main exterior piece.  Sew two lines of gathering stitches down the middle, about 1″ apart.

Pull the top threads to gather, pull until the length is 9″ long.  Press the gathers in place.

Take the front band and pin it in the middle of the exterior piece you just finished.

Top stitch along each side of the band.  Take the 5.5″ tall by 9″ interfacing piece and iron it to the WRONG side of the gathered piece.  This makes all the gathering and stitching stay in place nicely.  Set aside.

Make the divider pocket:

Fuse interfacing to half of the piece.

Fold fabric in half with WRONG sides together, press.  Topstitch along folded edge and then add another line of topstitching about 1/4″ below the first line of topstitching.  Set aside.

Make the card holders:

Fuse interfacing to half of the piece.  Fold fabric in half with WRONG sides together, press.

Topstitch along folded edge and then add another line of topstitching about 1/8″ below the first line of topstitching.

Take one piece of the lining fabric and line up the card holder with raw edges together, one on top of the other baste along side and bottom edged of card holder (the plaid fabric).

Grab your credit card or driver’s license and mark with a pin how far you want your card to stick up from the slot.  Sew a line across the lining/card holder piece where you marked with the pin.  Sew one line of stitching down the center of the card holder.

Take your card again and mark with a pin where the edge of your card is (you can leave a little wiggle room, but it’s nice to keep it pretty snug to hold your cards in place).  Sew a line for the side of the card, repeat for other side.  Now you should have two card holders!  Set aside.

Making the end tabs for the zipper:

Fold the piece of fabric in half width wise, turn down each raw edge to the center crease and press (the pic above doesn’t show it pressed in far enough).  Repeat for other end tab.

Take your zipper and sandwich the end tab around the zipper, just avoiding little metal end stops on both ends.

Topstitch a line straight across the zipper end tab with a very small seam allowance being careful not to hit the metal end stops!  Repeat for other end.  Trim the fabric tabs to the width of the zipper.

IMPORTANT!  The length of the zipper with the tabs on should measure 8.5″ end to end. 

Baste the card holders to one piece of lining and the divider pocket to the other piece of  lining, aligning the raw edges at the bottom.

Almost done!

Assembling the clutch:

Place your gathered exterior piece RIGHT side up (whoops!, had it wrong in the pic, don’t worry, just get out your seam ripper and start again).  Put the zipper teeth side down with the pull tab to the LEFT.  Then put the lining piece WRONG side up.  Pin in place.

Using your zipper foot sew along the edge of this zipper sandwich.  Flip pieces so the WRONG sides are together.

***Please note that in a few of these shots the zipper with end tabs sewn on is longer than the clutch exteriors and linings, it was the first one I made and have since made adjustments to the measurements, all updates are included here in the tutorial.

Grab the other exterior piece, place RIGHT side up.  Put the zipper teeth side down with the pull tab on the RIGHT this time. Place the remaining lining piece WRONG side up on top of the zipper.  Pin in place, sew.  Flip pieces so the WRONG side are facing each other.  Press!

Put your regular sewing foot back on and sew a line of topstitching on either side of the zipper.

Now open your zipper about halfway, don’t forget this!  If you forget to do this, don’t worry, you can still wiggle the zipper open if you carefully pull at it through the fabric.

Place the exterior pieces RIGHT sides together and the lining pieces RIGHT sides together.
Sew all around the edge using a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a 3-4″ opening in the lining for turning.  Make sure you try to sew right next to the zipper end tabs and not actually throught them, click here for a visual.  Clip corners.  It also helps to sew with a slightly larger seam allowance when you sew around the lining pieces.
Turn the clutch right side out.  Push corners out.  Tuck in raw edges of opening left in the lining and sew the opening in the lining closed using a small seam allowance (or by hand).  Tuck the lining into the clutch.  Press again and your DONE!!!   Phew.  It does seam like a lengthy process, but it really does sew up pretty quickly.  For the biggest time saver, just skip the divider pocket and card holders! Or add a handle!  The one below I just put in a mini pocket!

If you don’t add the divider or card pockets, I would recommend adding a layer of fusible fleece or even canvas as interfacing, it will make the clutch more sturdy.

Have fun with it and give that mom in your life a big hug!
Have a great Mother’s Day!
Interior shots
interior card holders (2 – side by side)
interior pocket divider (it’s the green polka dot fabric)

Bags, Wallets, and Zips

Boy’s Drawstring Backpack from Khaki Pants Tutorial

If you’re stopping over from MADE, thanks for visiting and be sure to take a look around at my other stuff.  Let’s hear it for the boys!

Have a few old pairs of khaki pants laying around?  Maybe even some with a few stains on them?  Here’s your chance to turn your husband’s old khaki pants into a super cool drawstring backpack for your little guy.

You’ll need:
one pair khaki pants (actually enough fabric for the exterior of 2 backpacks)
1/2 yard for lining fabric
scraps for front zipper pocket
1/8″ cotton cording (approx. 3 yards), I found mine at Home Depot – 45′ for under $3, but you can also get cording at your local fabric store.
one 8″ zipper
thread!

Cut your pieces:
First, cut your pieces from the khaki pants.  Cut across the crotch section (like you’re making short shorts).  Then cut up the inseam of each leg of your pants.  Open up the fabric.  Cut two pieces 13″ wide by 16″ tall.
I chose to include the side seam towards the lower half of the fabric, but you can place it wherever works for your particular pair of pants.

From your lining fabric, cut 2 pieces 13″ wide by 16″ tall.  For the zipper portion of the bag cut two pieces 3″ tall by 13″ wide, two pieces 4.5″ tall by 13″ wide, and four pieces 2″ tall by 4″ wide.

Then cut two tabs that will attach the cording to the backpack 2″ tall by 4″ wide.  Fold them in half lengthwise right sides together and sew {1/4″ seam allowance}. Turn right side out and press.  Set aside.

Sew the zipper pocket: (you can omit the zipper and just make this portion a simple patchwork if don’t want a zippered pocket or if you really don’t like sewing with zippers, but come on, give it a try, it’s fun!)

Sandwich your zipper between two of the four small pieces, fabric right sides together.  Sew a 1/2″ seam being sure not to hit the little metal parts on your zipper.  Flip the pieces wrong sides together and iron.

Topstitch with about an 1/8″ seam and then again with another line of topstitching about a 1/4″ from the first line.  Add the same pieces sewn the same way to the other side of the zipper.

Now take the 3″ tall pieces and sandwich them around the top long edge of the zipper right sides facing together.  Sew using a zipper foot using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Flip wrong sides together and press.  Next take the two 4.5″ tall pieces and sew them to the bottom long edge of the zipper.

Flip wrong sides together and press.  Switch back to your regular sewing foot and topstich on both the top and bottom long edges of the zipper using about an 1/8″ seam allowance.

Take the top of your assembled pocket piece and press it down about a 1/2 inch.  Open up the flap you just pressed (and making sure the bottom of the assembled pocket piece aligns with the bottom of the exterior piece) and sew the pieces together, sewing along that ironed crease.

Fold the pocket piece down and topstitch along the top edge.  Baste your pocket piece to the exterior of the bag about a 1/4″ from the edge on the two sides and bottom.  {Now is a great time to add some detail to the top of your bag such as a freezer paper stencil, applique or even a patch.}

Take the two tabs you made earlier and place them about 1.5″ from the bottoms of the bag on either side with the raw edges lining up with the raw edges of the exterior of the bag.  Baste.

Then, make two marks on either side of the top of the wrong side of the exterior of the bag.  The first mark is 1/2″ from the top and the second mark 3/4″ from the first mark.  You will be leaving a gap in between these two marks — this will be part of the casing for the drawstrings.

Place your two exterior pieces right sides together.  Sew together using a 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving the space between your two markings open.

Next, place the lining pieces right sides together and sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance leaving a 4-5″ opening in the bottom for turning.

Flip the lining piece right side out and place inside the exterior of the bag (right sides facing together).  Sew around the top edge of the bag using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining.  Sew the opening shut using a small seam allowance.  Press the top edge of the bag.

Sew around the top of the bag using about a 5/8″ seam allowance (this is making the casing for the drawstrings).

Cut your cording in half, each piece being approximately a yard and a half long (this length can be adjusted depending on how big your child is and if they’ll be wearing winter coats under the backpacks).  Using a safety pin, thread each cord through the openings left in the seams of the exteior.  Thread through one side and pull cording out through the same opening.  Do the same for the other side.  Tie the cords together through the tabs you made at the bottom of the bag.  You’re done!

There a lots of options for this bag.  Add a freezer paper stencil, an applique, or a patch to the bag to make it even more personalized.  You can also use ribbon or cotton webbing in place of the fabric tabs at the bottom of the bag.  Take this and make it your own!

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