Bags, Wallets, and Zips

ten-square quilt mini tutorial

babyquilt

Hope you had a great weekend! It’s definitely starting to feel like fall here and I couldn’t be more excited for all the fall activities.

I thought I’d share a quick how-to on making the baby quilt I made a few weeks ago. You can find the original post here. I do want to point out that there are probably many ways to make this quilt. I don’t believe one way is more correct than another, so if you’ve found something that works better for you, go for it. I wanted to make the best use of this 10-square (some manufacturers call this a layer cake, either way, it’s a grouping of 10″ squares) with minimal leftovers and without a lot of planning. Again, this 10-square is by Jennifer Sampou and it’s her Shimmer Coordinates 10-Square.What that means for me is that I made the quilt in a somewhat unconventional way in order to have the most variety among the blocks. Using what I believe to be a more a traditional method, you would have duplicate blocks, but with the small number of full squares in the 10-square, I knew I’d have to do some mixing and matching.

quilt

Start by making half square triangles (HSTs). Place two full squares right sides together. Using a ruler and pencil, mark a line diagonally across the top square.favorite baby quilt by Anna Graham

Sew 1/4″ on both sides of the line. Cut on marked line.10packtutorial-02

Without picking up block, cut on the diagonal in the other direction. Press seams open. I didn’t plan out how many I made, instead I made 5-6 at a time (chain piecing) until I ran out of full squares to match them up with later on.

10packtutorial-03

Now you’ll have units that look like this:

10packtutorial-04

Place right sides together with a full square, being sure to grab two different HSTs (this is the key to getting the most variety). Align the cut HST to the outer edges of the full square. There will be about a 1″ gap between the two HSTs. Carefully pin the HSTs to the full square along the cut edge. Please note that where you are sewing the HSTs to the full square will be on the bias. Carefully pin and take your time to avoid stretching. Trim into two blocks using the HSTs raw edge as a guide for a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam open.10packtutorial-05

Keep going until you can’t make any more blocks. I had 3 blocks and maybe 4 HSTs leftover from my 10-pack after I finished my layout. Trim blocks to 9″ square aligning diagonal seam lines to ruler markings.10packtutorial-06

Lay out blocks in 6 rows of 6. Sew the blocks into rows. Press seams open. Sew rows together pressing seams open.

That’s it, your quilt top is finished! Hope this helps a bit for anyone who was curious. Let me know if you have questions, or if I’ve left anything out!

It’s a pretty quick quilt top! Finishes at approximately 51″ square.

folded

Bags, Wallets, and Zips

Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial

Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Noodlehead

I’m sharing a tutorial for the pincushions I featured a few weeks ago. My inspiration came from a classic quilt design, the Wagon Wheel and by the quilt pattern in Denyse Schmidt’s Modern Quilts Traditional Inspiration. I hope you’ll enjoy this tutorial and make a few for you and your friends!

Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Noodlehead

Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Noodlehead

Materials:

From scraps, cut:

  • (1) 1 1/4″ square
  • (4) 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles
  • (4) 2 1/2″ squares
  • (1) 2″ tall x 13″ wide band
  • (1) circle for bottom using template (not pictured below)

Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham

1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise noted.

Instructions:

  1. Fold band in half widthwise right sides together. Sew. Press seam open.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  2. Mark band into quarters by first aligning seam and marking opposite folded edge within seam allowance on both top and bottom edges. Then open band and align previous markings and mark folded edges as before.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  3. Sew patchwork top together, sewing right sides together into rows. Press seams open.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  4. Sew rows together matching seams. Press seams open.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  5. Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna GrahamTrim patchwork top to a circle by using template. Use markings as a guide to align to patchwork strips.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  6. With right sides together, pin band to patchwork top aligning quarter markings. Add additional pins between quarter markings if desired. Sew around perimeter with band facing up.pincushion10 Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  7. Mark bottom piece into quarters by folding in half and marking at fold line. Open and refold in half the opposite direction aligning markings and mark at fold line.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  8. Repeat Step 4 to attach bottom piece.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  9. With a seam ripper, carefully open up seam in band. You’ll need to open the seam almost to the seam of the top and bottom circles.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  10. Turn pincushion right side out.
  11. Stuff with polyester stuffing (or combination filling of your choice – rice/beans/crush walnut shells add nice weight).Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  12. Sew opening in band closed by hand using a ladder stitch.Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna GrahamWagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Anna Graham
  13. Press entire top and bottom of pincushion and shape pincushion by placing under a book overnight for a nice even pincushion.

Fabrics: Rain Walk (by me!), Curiosities by Jeni Baker,
Cotton + Steel Basics, Carolyn Friedlander (Architextures and Doe)

You can find Rain Walk at these fine shops!


pincushions5

Wagon Wheel Pincushion Tutorial by Noodlehead

Enjoy!

Techniques

How to Install Rivets

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Hi there! Remember the Caravan Tote + Pouch pattern? Well, today I’m sharing my tips and instructions on how to install handles using rivets. As part of Sew Mama Sew‘s Super Online Sewing Match II, the Caravan Tote is the project for the third round of the competition. I’m so excited to see how the talented contestants interpret this pattern. It’s always fun to see everyone’s creative twist on a project, that’s what I love most about sewing!

Using rivets in bag making can take your projects to a whole new level, and they look awesome with the Caravan Tote.

p.s. you can totally do this!

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rivetbag2

Hardware is one of my most favorite parts of bag making. It adds a beautiful detail with professional looking results. I think hardware can be very intimidating to learn at first, but with a little bit of information and how-to, anyone can do it. Many times installing hardware is one of the last steps when making a bag, especially when it comes to attaching handles with rivets. You’ve working really hard to make an awesome bag, and then it’s rivet and handle time! I’ve been there and I know it feels scary. Hopefully with this tutorial and my tips, you’ll be setting rivets in no time flat – and with confidence!

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[test rivets and materials, water-soluble pen, double cap rivet, finished strap, rivet setting tool or rivet press]

Materials:

  • rivets (I typically use double cap rivets with an 8-9mm cap size and 6-8mm post length)
  • awl/leather punch/rivet press
  • rivet setting tool or rivet press that fits the size rivets you are installing
  • soft hammer/mallot
  • finished handles (fabric or leather)
  • a bag to attach them to!

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[Rivet setting tool, anvil and strike post]

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[rivet cap on top, rivet with post]

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Tips to get started:

  • Rivet size. There are many types and sizes of rivets! Probably more than you’ve ever thought possible. Buying the right size and type for your project is cruicial in having success with your finished product. For most bags I recommend an 8mm or 9mm double cap rivet with a post length of 6-8 mm. Don’t forget about finding the correct post length! It helps determine how many layers your rivet will actually hold together. Having too long of a post length, your rivet won’t sit snugly on your handles, but having a post length that is too short will leave you with a rivet that won’t be long enough! Take time when you’re shopping. If the item description doesn’t list the information you need, contact the shop owner.
  • Practice. No one ever has set out to do something they’ve never done before and been amazing at it the first time they try! Don’t expect yourself to know everything the first time. Everything is a learning process and a few practice tries will get you warmed up and ready for setting your first rivets on a real project. I usually set aside a couple small snippets of the same amount of layers/fabrics that I use for my finished project. It’s great to practice a few times with scraps to get a good feel for how everything goes together and to get acquainted with the tools.

Install rivet:

  1. Mark rivet placement. I like to use a water-soluble pen for marking placement. I find it works for the particular leather handles that I use, but do a test marking with your materials that you’re using. I usually use the cap part of the rivet to get a good look at how things will work. I recommend setting two rivets per handle end. The bag pattern you’re using should suggest the distance between the straps, or align them to how you see fit.5
  2. Punch holes. Use and awl, leather punch, or rivet press, punch the hole in both the leather and bag using the markings you previously marked.6
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  3. Align holes and push the rivet post through layers from exterior of bag to the interior. You can probably do it the opposite way as well, working from the inside of the bag, so do what works best for you after doing a few practice runs. Snap rivet cap in place on rivet post. Some rivet brands click into place, others may not.8
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  4. Set rivet. Using the setting tools, or rivet press attach the rivet. Most likely if you’re new to using rivets a setting tool is the most affordable option. It comes with a strike post and anvil. The anvil is set on a solid surface, next aligning the attached rivet over anvil, then the strike post is the tool is set over the cap. With a soft hammer or mallot, strike the post with a few solid taps. A rivet press is a really amazing tool. Most also are able to be used for setting grommets or even snaps. They are fairly costly, so I do suggest trying the hand setting tools first.10

That’s all! Pretty painless, right?! I think the more you practice, the more confident you’ll feel. I can’t wait to see all the awesome ways you’ll be incorporating rivets into your handmade projects!11

In the past few years, I have spent hours and hours researching and sourcing hardware and straps. My patterns and book both include these resource links, plus more. It’s a search that I’ve been passionate about and have tried to learn as much as I can – and am still learning. I have personally used these shops and can verify that they sell high quality products.

Rivet supply sources (I typically use an 8mm head with a 6mm post or 8mm post length):
Minkus Margo on etsy
Buckleguy.com
Emmaline Bags

Leather Punch (affiliate link) – Tandy Leather

Handles:
Leather Handles (in my shop!)